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Muztagh Tower, is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range on the border of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uygur region of China. It stands between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo Glacier.
The Mustagh Tower was made famous by a spectacular but somewhat misleading photograph taken by Vittorio during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. In 1941, the photograph was featured in a popular book on mountaineering with the caption “The Last Citadel”.
Nearly fifty years after Sella’s photo was taken, in 1956, his photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. Both teams found their routes less steep than Sella’s view had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge first on July 6, five days before the French team (fr; Guido Magnone, fr; Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east. The doctor François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.
Islamabad International Airport (Google Map)
3 Hours Before Flight Time
Arrive in Rawalpindi/Islamabad. Transfer to your hotel/guesthouse. Short rest followed by a visit to the Alpine Club of Pakistan for necessary expedition formalities.
Early morning drive to Skardu via road. Optional: Flight to Skardu (one-way flight included in the package). Overnight stay in Chilas.
Emergency day in case of flight disruption. If needed, transfer members by road from Chilas to Skardu. The total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is approximately 22-24 hours.
Leisure day, Final arrangements for the expedition, including equipment check and team briefing.
Embark on jeeps for a full-day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole (3050m).
Leave the last inhabited village. Rely on porters for the remaining journey. Trekking through breathtaking landscapes.
Trek to the Dumurdo River and cross at Jhula. Continue the trek amidst stunning surroundings.
Resume trek along the Braldu River to Paiju, a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak (6611m).
Rest and acclimatization day at Paiju. Overnight in tents with all meals served by the camp staff.
Begin trek after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju-Baltoro Glaciers. Lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp with fine views of rock spires. Cross the Khuburse torrent early in the morning and reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas.
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier to Lhungka. Spectacular views of surrounding peaks.
The final day of the trek to Muztagh Tower Base Camp. A 3-4 hour trek to reach the base camp of Muztagh Tower.
Twenty days of non-guided climb with the assistance of High Altitude Pakistani Sherpa. Climbing Muztagh Tower is a challenging and rewarding experience.
After climbing, trek back to Urdukas. Enjoy the descent amidst awe-inspiring landscapes.
Trek from Urdukas to Paiju. Cross the glacier and reach the camping site near Paiju.
Upon arrival, camp near the fields in Askole village.
Embark on jeeps for a full-day ride on a winding jeep trail back to Skardu. Transfer to your chosen hotel.
Early morning flight to Islamabad (if unable to fly, drive to Gilgit). Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Free day in Islamabad for sightseeing and relaxation.
Transfer to the airport for your onward international flight. End of the expedition services.
