Yazghil Sar 5964m Peak Climbing

Yazghil Sar is an isolated snow-and-ice peak between the Yukshin Garden and Yazghil glaciers in the Shimshal valley. It is a relatively easy to climb and ideal as a first Karakoram peak or as acclimatisation for higher/harder objectives. It is also easily accessible, located a days walk east of Shimshal village, which now has a Jeep road extending from the Karakoram Highway. The peak has two summits with the north summit being marginally lower than the main south summit.
The mountain takes its name from the grazing area on its lower slopes which is the nearest grazing area to Shimshal village. The peak may not be one of the Karakorum’s most striking however the views from the mountain are stunning with particularly good views towards the northern faces of the Hispar Muztagh. North of Yazghil Sar the main ridge continues to Skirish Sar (6600m) before rising further to Yukshin Garden Sar (7000m). The summit ridge is relatively long and the main summit is often hard to identify until in close proximity. In 1988 Ernie McGlashan, Jack Brindle and John O’Reilly first reached the summit via the northwest face and north ridge. They made the climb in three days from base camp at 3600m on the lateral moraine next to the Yazghil glacier. A high camp was set on the northwest slopes at 4670m and a bivouac ledge hacked out of ice on the north ridge at 5180m. Since then the peak has received a steady flow of climbers including by a number of locals. The peak is a just under 6000m having been surveyed at both 5932m and 5964m. The Leomann map imaginatively surveys the peak at 6300m however the mountain is definitely not this high.