Trango Tower Expedition (6,286m)

0
13 Days
Availability : April - August
Islamabad
Skardu
Tour Details

The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier in Baltistan, a district of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan (formerly Northern Areas). They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6,286 m (20,608 ft). The east face of the Great Trango Tower features the world’s greatest nearly vertical drop.
All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. Great Trango itself is a large massif, with four identifiable summits: Main (6,286 m), South or Southwest (circa 6,250 m), East (6,231 m), and West (6,223 m). It is a complex combination of steep snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical to overhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system.

Just northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6,239 m), often called “Nameless Tower”. This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000 m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as “Trango Monk.” To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however, the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name. Trango II (6,327 m) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6,363 m), lies northwest of Trango II.

Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the Trango Pulpit(6,050m), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further to the south is Trango Castle (5,753 m), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.

Overall, the Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, a total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs.

Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier) and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.

Departure & Return Location

Islamabad International Airport (Google Map)

Departure Time

3 Hours Before Flight Time

Price Includes

  • Air fares
  • 3 Nights Hotel Accomodation
  • Tour Guide
  • Entrance Fees
  • All transportation in destination location

Price Excludes

  • Guide Service Fee
  • Driver Service Fee
  • Any Private Expenses
  • Room Service Fees

Complementaries

  • Umbrella
  • Sunscreen
  • T-Shirt
  • Entrance Fees
What to Expect
  • Mountain Scenery
  • Glaciers and Icefalls
  • Wildlife
  • Cultural Richness
  • Clear Skies and Panoramic Views
  • Challenges and Adventure
Itinerary

Day 1Arrival Day In Islamabad, Pakistan

Most of the international flights arrives at Islamabad International Airport in the mornings. Your Guide will meet and greet you at the airport, then you will be transfer to the hotel. Rest of the days is free to recover from your journey. Later in the day, when everyone has arrived, we will have a group briefing about the Trango Tower Pakistan Expedition. Depending on the time available to us, there may be an option to do some sightseeing in Islamabad, A purpose-built City in 1961 as the new capital of Pakistan

Day 2Islamabad to Skardu flight

If the flight is cancel, we will drive on KKH to Chilas, Islamabad to Chilas, 461km. 8-9 H-Drive. Today we travel to Islamabad Airport to take a spectacular flight (weather permitting) across the mountains to Skardu, the Capital of Baltistan. It’s a 45 minute flight which offers Spectacular Mountains views of Himalaya & Karakoram mountain range, you can also enjoy the breathtaking views of world’s 9th highest peak, Nanga Parbat (8126m), if weather is clear then we might be able to see K2 and Gondogoro Pass as well. Check in to the Hotel, res of the day will be spent visiting the local Bazar, historical forts, scenic lakes or visiting ancient rock inscriptions, one of which is of 8th century Manthal Lord Buddha Rock that shows traces of Buddhist monks and pilgrims who had influence in the area before Islam.

Day 3Sightseeing & Preparation Day, Skardu

In the morning you will walk up to the remains of Kharpocho Fort (builded early 1700), which overlooks the town and has a great view of the Indus River. If you are into photography then this is a perfect location to take photos of Skardu Town at sunrise or sunset. (we can arrange this for you). We will then walk to a small village, called Organic village, which grows all its crops organically. The afternoon is free to explore. perhaps you would like to take an optional jeep tour to Satpara Lake or explore the bazaar.

Day 4Drive To Johla Via Askoli

Following day you will drive along the Mighty Indus, Shigar and Braldu River to the lush green Shigar Valley towards Askoli. Askoli is the last village before entering into the heart of Karakoram. We will spend 1-2 hours in Askoli, which is high above the thundering Braldu River. Askole is a single street of wooden houses, backed by irrigated fields of corn, potatoes and groves of apricot trees. Wend our way through the lanes and fields of Askole which will be the last settlement that we will encounter on our trek to Concordia. Watching the local people go about their daily business is a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the hardy Balti people.
In Askole, you will meet some of your porters. After meeting our porters, we will continue our Trango Tower Expedition towards Johla camp.

The valley opens out to reveal the Biafo Glaciers, we have our first taste of moraine, we cross the snout of the glacier and descend to the green spot beside the river at Korofong. Korfong is located along on the banks of the Braldu River.

From Korofong we continue our our journey by following the road up a side valley to do a detour to cross the fast flowing river by a bridge. We then drive for another five minutes or so to reach the Jhola Camp. The views are impressive with Bakhor Das (5,809m) and Paiju Peak’s needles in the distance.

Day 5Trek To Paiju

Today will be your first walking day of Trango Tower Expedition. After organising all the equipment and supplies our porters load up for the journey ahead towards Paiju. The path runs for a while at the very edge of the river, before climbing to higher ground and allowing us excellent views of the impressive Paiju Peak. We have to negotiate a couple of streams today and depending on the melting of the glaciers above, we may have to ford these (sports sandals or old trainers useful). Paiju is a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak (6,611m). From this camp we have the first views of the immense Baltoro Glacier, granite peaks of the Trango and Cathedral groups, and if the weather is clear then might see a glimpse of k2.

Day 6Trek To Trango Tower Base Camp

From our camp at Paiju, a walk of approximately one hour brings us to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier. After viewing the outpouring of melt water from the ice we now climb up onto the back of this great beast. At this point the ice of the glacier is completely covered by rubble and rocks and although we are following a trail used by many expeditions, the going here can be quite tough. The trail undulated as we climb over the swells of the flowing glacier and it is fascinating to think that the stones underfoot could have come from the summit of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum or K2. Gradually we work our way across the glacier to its south side where we can use a path along lateral moraine. Heading roughly east we continue, sometimes on the moraine and sometimes down beside the glacier until we reach a side valley. At the snout of the Baltoro Glacier the trail divides. We will take the left branch to reach the Trango Tower base camp. En-route we will enjoy spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama including Paiyu Peak (6660m), Uli Biaho Tower (6417m), Liligo, Urdukas Peak, Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), Mitre Peak (6025m) and etc. The amphitheatre provides an ideal venue to appreciate some of the most inspiring and unique mountain vistas in the world. Finally we are at the Base Camp of Great Trango Tower and hard work has paid off with a sensational views of the Cathedral Towers, the Trango Group and the striking rock tower of Uli Biaho.

Day 7 - 32Acclimatization & Climbing Period

Non guided climbing of Trango Tower will start from today onwards. During the climbing period of Trango Tower our staff will be at base camp to help and assist you.

Day 33Trek Back To Paju

After the climbing period of Trango Tower, we will head back towards Islamabad by following the same itinerary backwards. Today we will trek on the Baltoro Glacier with spectacular views of the Trango Towers towards Paiju. As on our approach we have to detour to the south in order to cross the Liligo Glacier. This glacier defies world trends in that it is steadily growing. Twenty years ago its snout was half a mile up the valley and now it has collided with the main Baltoro Glacier, with the result that the churning forces have made it impossible to cross without the detour.
Having made the detour and returned to the main Baltoro Glacier, we now cross to its north side, climbing over the huge swells of the glacier towards the ramparts of Uli Biaho. On the other side we then work our way down to the valley where we pick up the main trail and pass by the snout where the underground river which flows through the length of the glacier erupts out in a cascade to become the Braldu. The last hour of the day is an easy walk on a good path although there is a final uphill pull to reach the campsite. On our first arrival here we relished the prospect of a cooler climate ahead. Now we will welcome its warmth! We will spend our night at the green oasis of Paiju.

Day 34Trek Back To Jhola

This will be our final walking day of Trango Tower Expedition. Now we are off the glacier and at a lower elevation it is considerably warmer and we may make an early start to use the cool of the morning. Leaving Paiju we walk on a good trail down the valley. Once again it is surprising how different the experience is compared to our ascent. The trail rises and falls as we cross several alluvial fans. We have to cross some side streams today, mostly using makeshift bridges or stepping-stones but it may be necessary also to wade across, especially later in the day. The source of all these streams is meltwater and so they grow bigger as the day gets warmer. At one point the trail passes close to the river beside walls of conglomerate and it is possible to feel its tremendous power. We follow the main Braldu River downstream to its confluence with the Panma River where we turn north-east to reach a camping place beside the toll bridge at the place known as Jhola.
Today we can celebrate the success of our Trango Tower Expedition with the porters and hand out their tips as a token of our appreciations for their hard work throughout the trek. Also, we often give them any spare kit that we no longer needed which is also a way of saying thank You. Most of our porters are from this village so later on at the campsite we will say goodbye to our crew who are now our friends and we will perhaps have a final party here.

Day 35Drive Back To Skardu Via Shigar Valley

Our vehicles will already be waiting for us in Johla so we make an early start for the return drive to Skardu. Today we will return to civilisation after few weeks in the wilderness. Soon we will follow a pleasant trail which leads down to the little ablation area beside the Biafo Glacier known as Korofon, surrounded by sparse grasses and tamarisk bushes. Beyond Korofon we first follow the glacial moraine of the Biafo and then drive beside the river that issues from its snout until we reach a bridge which allows us to cross to its north side. The road passes through a wide flat area known locally as the ‘King’s Polo Ground’ before climbing to pass through a convenient cleft in a ridge of rock which threatens to bar further progress down the valley. Descending steeply down the other side of this ‘window’, we have a pleasant stroll through a boulder-strewn landscape before climbing once again up onto a shallow plateau. We cross several small side valleys and begin to see various signs of habitation before reaching an irrigation channel bring meltwater to the field of Askole. We follow the channel for a while and can appreciate the tremendous skill of the local people who have harnessed the distant snows to grow their crops in a high altitude desert. Eventually we reach green fields and stone walls which lead us into the village. Most of our porters are from Askole and will be pleased to be home. Here, we will say good by to our Porters and continue our journey towards Skardu.
Crossing the Braldu on a suspension bridge we follow the remarkable road built through the Braldu Gorge. It is not uncommon for this road to be blocked by landslide and we may have to change vehicles if the road is blocked. If this is the case we will retain some of our porters to transfer the bags while we walk across any landslide areas. Once we have climbed up out of the gorge at the other end the road improves as we travel down the fertile Shigar Valley to its confluence with the Indus. Now we have a faster, smoother journey on a paved road following the great Indus River into Skardu. Arriving in the town we will check in to our hotel and there will be time for a welcome shower and clean up before sitting down to dinner. Tonight we will enjoy the comfort of a real bed.

Day 36Fly Back To Islamabad

If the weather is clear then will take the flight to Islamabad. Skardu airport is a 40 minute drive from the hotel along a good road lined with poplar trees. Boarding our plane we have an exciting flight out of the valley, once again passing by Nanga Parbat before turning south for Islamabad. Arriving in the Pakistani capital after a period in the mountains is always a strange experience and it takes a little time to get used to the hustle and bustle and especially the traffic. Our private bus will be waiting at the airport to transfer us to the group hotel and once we have settled in it will be time to take lunch (unless we have experienced unusual flight delays). After lunch the rest of the day is free for independent sightseeing or to relax at the hotel. Your Guide will advise you on the possibilities for sightseeing. Shopping for hand-made Iranian & Afghan rugs is a usually popular option. This evening we come together again for a celebratory meal at the hotel or in a local restaurant.

Day 37Contingency day in case of delays

If driving down the Karakoram Highway we will arrive to Islamabad late afternoon. If we managed to fly the day before then we will spend today sightseeing in Islamabad. In the evening we will have a final group meal.
Skardu is a ‘weather dependent’ airport which means the planes will only fly here if the visibility allows line of sight to the runway by the pilot on the approach. Fortunately the weather is mostly clear in the Karakoram but local weather conditions can bring cloud and rain from time to time. If we cannot fly we will travel down to Islamabad by road along the spectacular Karakoram Highway. If we flew up to Skardu this will be an added bonus as it is a fantastic travel experience in its own right. The drive down the Indus River to Islamabad takes two days so this is an important contingency day to allow for this. If we have flown to Islamabad this will be a further day for sightseeing in the capital and your leader will advise the group on the options available for today.

Day 38Fly Back Home

After Breakfast you will be Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for the flight back home.
End of “Trango Tower Expedition” .

Map
Photos

Proceed Booking